Table of Contents
- Why Traditional Techniques Still Matter
- Dum Cooking: The Science of Slow Sealing
- Tandoor: Fire as a Controlled System
- Tempering (Tadka): Precision in Oil and Spice
- Slow Braising and Bhuna: Building Depth
- How These Techniques Shape Modern Indian Cuisine
Why Traditional Techniques Still Matter
A common assumption is that modern Indian cuisine is driven by innovation, when in reality it is grounded in technique. What has changed is not the foundation, but the level of control—how chefs refine traditional methods to create clarity, balance, and consistency.
At The Crossing Indian Bistro in Paris, this philosophy is central. The kitchen does not reinvent Indian food; it edits it, relying on time-tested methods while applying restraint to let ingredients and technique speak more clearly.
Understanding these traditional methods is key to understanding why modern Indian dishes feel more precise, yet still deeply familiar.
Dum Cooking: The Science of Slow Sealing
Dum is one of the most defining techniques in Indian cooking, often misunderstood as simply “slow cooking.” In reality, it is a controlled method of sealing food within a pot, allowing it to cook in its own steam.
This technique is central to dishes like biryani, where rice, meat, and spices cook together without direct exposure to heat, preserving aroma and moisture. The result is not just tenderness, but integration—each grain carrying the flavour of the whole.
At The Crossing, the Chicken Dum Biryani reflects this principle, where saffron, spices, and basmati rice are layered and cooked with precision, rather than excess.
Dum cooking demonstrates a key idea in Indian cuisine: flavour is not forced—it is allowed to develop.
Tandoor: Fire as a Controlled System
The tandoor is often associated with char and smokiness, but its true role is control. This clay oven reaches extremely high temperatures, allowing food to cook quickly while retaining moisture.
What makes the tandoor distinctive is not just heat, but how that heat is used. Marinades—typically yogurt-based—protect proteins while carrying spices into the surface, creating depth without heaviness.
Dishes like chicken tikka or tandoori cauliflower rely on this balance, producing a result that is structured, lightly charred, and clean rather than oily.
In modern kitchens, the tandoor represents efficiency and precision—fire used as a system, not spectacle.
Tempering (Tadka): Precision in Oil and Spice
Tempering, or tadka, is one of the most technical aspects of Indian cooking. Whole spices are added to hot oil or ghee, releasing their essential oils instantly and shaping the base flavour of a dish.
This method requires timing and control—too early, and the spices burn; too late, and they fail to release their full aroma. Ingredients like mustard seeds, cumin, garlic, and curry leaves each behave differently under heat.
In dishes like yellow dal tadka, this technique transforms simple lentils into something layered and aromatic.
Tempering illustrates how Indian cuisine builds complexity through small, precise actions rather than elaborate processes.
Slow Braising and Bhuna: Building Depth
Another foundational method is slow braising, often combined with bhuna—a technique where spices are cooked down with onions, tomatoes, and fat until they form a concentrated base.
This is the backbone of many North Indian curries, where flavour develops gradually through reduction rather than addition. The process requires patience: spices are not just added, they are cooked until their rawness disappears and their oils separate.
The Railway Lamb Curry exemplifies this approach, using slow cooking and controlled spice integration to create depth without overwhelming the palate.
In modern contexts, this technique is refined through precision—less oil, fewer spices, but greater attention to timing and balance.
How These Techniques Shape Modern Indian Cuisine
Modern Indian cuisine is often described as lighter or more refined, but these qualities come from discipline rather than change. Traditional methods like dum, tandoor, tempering, and bhuna remain intact—they are simply executed with greater control.
Chef Ankur’s approach at The Crossing reflects this evolution: fewer elements on the plate, clearer flavours, and a focus on technique over decoration. The result is food that feels both rooted and contemporary—recognizable in its structure, but more precise in its expression.
Conclusion
Traditional cooking methods are not relics in Indian cuisine—they are its operating system. From the sealed environment of dum cooking to the immediacy of tempering, each technique defines how flavour is built, not just what flavour is used.
Modern Indian cuisine, at its best, does not move away from these methods. It moves closer to them—refining, editing, and understanding them more deeply.


